A day in the desert

Today has been about travelling into the desert in more ways than one. I heard last night that my two year old daughter Lydia had to be taken into hospital with a Chicken pox which had led to a secondary infection sending her temperature up far too high. All this has been added to by a decided reluctance on her part to take any of the prescribed medicine, meaning that more direct action was needed. For me the feeling of helplessness to relieve the suffering of my little girl, to care for her brothers and to help my wonderful husband (who has forgone sleep and had to deal with a very strong willed, very poorly child) was acute. I so much wanted to be by their sides, but like so many thrust into the desert of need and fear, I had to turn in prayer to God and rely on the huge kindness of his people here at Tantur, and at home (thanks Sharon and especially Ron). A fairly sleepless night later and a lot of prayer brought me to this morning and the longed for news that she was improving. This continued through the day and this evening she came home (where she will stay as long as she takes her medicine!). Thank you to all who prayed and to those who’s skill and care have aided her start to recovery.

So here in Israel, just a little distracted, after a 6 am morning prayer and breakfast, I travelled 411 metres below sea level along the banks of the Dead Sea.

We went first to Massada – the incredible Herodian hill fortress where over 800 Zealots resisted the Romans for three years before, in the face of defeat, choosing collective suicide rather than slavery at the hands of Rome. None of my photos come close to capturing the awesome proportions of this place. I felt like at once I was on the top and at the bottom of the world. The magnitude of the engineering achievement is overwhelming, none the less huge in the courage of decision made by the Zealots. I heard about the young Jews who walk up to the top of Massada (we caught the cable car) on many mornings, to pray at one of the oldest Synagogues in the country. They are inspired by this place and its dreadful history to seek a land where Jews can live in freedom and peace. I pray that this might be achieved without that privilege being denied to others in this land. ,

Next we went on to En Gedi, for a spot of lunch and a swim (or rather bob) in the Dead Sea. I can truly say this was a most odd experience. Not altogether unpleasant but in almost 40 degrees Celsius and 30% salinity I was not keen to stay in too long. I think I shall put this down as one of those experiences to do once in a lifetime!

A brief stop off to see the spring which feeds En Gedi – a real stream in the desert, before moving on to Qumran, the site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. I must admit that by this stage lack of sleep, a fair bit of worry and a full and very hot day left me less than receptive to what our excellent guide Allan was saying. This will need to be something to read up on before we go and see the real scrolls in the Israel Museum tomorrow.

Despite the tiredness, it was impossible not to be impressed by the sheer beauty and ruggedness of the landscape of this area. It is clear why it inspired so much of the writing of Old and New Testament, and formed much of the identity of their people. I now have a far clearer idea of what draws people to the desert in search of purity and truth. I however was very glad to get back to Tantur and have a shower!